gabriella gershenson

USAToday.com
April 1, 2004

GABRIELLA GERSHENSON

Broadway and way beyond

New York's historic milestones are as multifaceted as the city itself, and discovering what its greatest contributions are may depend on who you ask. For the American history buff, it might be the city's role as the site of George Washington's presidential inauguration in 1789 or its place as the first capital of the United States from 1789 to 1790. For Americans with foreign roots (that's most of us), it may be New York City as launching pad for millions of immigrants — after the influx of arrivals at Ellis Island from 1900 to 1930, the city's population swelled in that time from three to seven million — that helped create the America that we know today. For architecture fanatics, the innovations of the city's urban design, which brought us what were once the world's longest suspension bridge (Brooklyn Bridge), tallest building (Empire State) and longest underground transportation system (the subway), would be counted among its most important achievements.

Such is the immeasurable ego and ambition of New York City. It may come as a shock to outsiders that the island of Manhattan, the area most people associate with "New York City," is actually quite small. Home to such famous landmarks as Times Square, the Empire State Building, the United Nations and Wall Street, the isle is a mere 13 miles long with an area of less than 35 square miles. In tourism this year, the city will welcome a projected 36.6 million visitors, almost 25 times the population of the island itself.

As New York continues to grow — a successful bid for the 2012 Summer Olympics would mean investing billions of dollars for hosting, construction on the new World Trade Center has already begun — the present quickly becomes the past. In a city that inspired the phrase "New York minute," signifying how the clock seems to move quicker here than it does elsewhere, looking back at the city's achievements allows us something that perhaps history makers did not have at their disposal: the luxury of time.

Take a neighborhood stroll — For residents and visitors alike, one of the best ways to get to know a New York neighborhood is to take a walking tour. Seeking to give more than an "Edgar Allan Poe slept here" perspective on the physical and cultural evolution of the city, the licensed guides of Big Onion Walking Tours all hold advanced degrees in American history or a related discipline. The walks are organized by geographical area (Greenwich Village, Tribeca, Harlem), as well as themes ("Gay and Lesbian New York," "Immigrant New York," "New York in War and Peace").

Show-up tours run Friday through Sunday and on major holidays from September through May, and Wednesday through Sunday during June, July and August. They generally start at an established landmark and last about two hours; the cost is $12 for adults, $10 for students and seniors. In inclement weather, you should call after 10:30 a.m. to confirm the tours are still running. Private and group tours can also be arranged and are also available seven days a week. 212-439-1090; www.bigonion.com.

Better than Cats— You don't have to be a New Yorker to have heard of some of the stars on Broadway today. Billy Crystal's Broadway debut in 700 Sundays and Brooke Shields in Wonderful Town may be worth seeing, yet they're not exactly representative of all that New York theater has to offer. If you choose to see a performance during your stay, consider some of the city's Broadway alternatives

Classic Stage Company, Cherry Lane Theater, The Public, Naked Angels and P.S.122 are a few Off-Broadway theater companies responsible for some truly excellent shows. Off-Broadway productions can range from free into the $100 dollar range and everywhere in between (you can expect to pay $25 or more in most cases). Check here for a comprehensive list of Off-Broadway stage companies and their Web sites. www.offbroadwayonline.com.

If you opt for Broadway in the end, check here for listings www.broadway.com or visit the TKTS booths on 47th Street at Broadway in Times Square (212-221-0013) or at John and Front streets a block from the South Street Seaport. At both locations you can find last-minute rates to shows that day — all 25% to 50% off. Pay cash only for these tickets.

Spanning history — The Brooklyn Bridge was the tallest structure in North America when it opened in 1883. While it no longer holds that title, the span has lost none of its grandeur. A stroll on its pedestrian walkway across this American icon offers breathtaking views of Manhattan from Wall Street to the Upper East Side. Stop between the two towers to read the plaques describing the innovative — and dangerous — way in which the bridge was built. To walk across the Brooklyn Bridge from Manhattan, start at Centre Street, close to City Hall, and stay on the south side of the walkway.

Once in Brooklyn, veer right across the South Park's Cadman Plaza green space, walk to the end of Cranberry Street and onto the Brooklyn Heights promenade. You'll see Lower Manhattan from a whole new perspective. Nearby, you'll find Montague Street, the main shopping street of Brooklyn Heights, a neighborhood known for its beautiful turn-of-the-century mansions.

All the while, you're no more than 10 minutes' walk from the Clark Street, Court Street and Jay Street-Borough Hall subway stations, all of which will shuttle you back to Manhattan in 10 minutes, tops.

A walk in the park — Whether you're a history buff, urban planning enthusiast or nature lover, at least one of these free year-round tours offered by the Central Park Conservancy should strike your fancy. Outings in the 843-acre public space include "View from the Past," a glimpse at the achievements of Central Park designers Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux; "A Road Once Traveled," a look at American Revolution and War of 1812 battles sites; and "Amble Through the Ramble," a hike through 38-acres of woodland. Each tour lasts approximately one hour and takes place several times a month. For a complete list of tour dates, times and directions to starting points, visit www.centralparknyc.org/thingstodo. Information for many tours can be found by calling the Central Park Dairy (212-794-6564) and Belvedere Castle (212-794-6564).

MoMA back in action — In November 2004, the Museum of Modern Art moved back to midtown Manhattan after spending two years at a temporary location in Queens. The world-famous collection's home has benefited from a $425 million overhaul that nearly doubled the museum's capacity, to about 630,000 square feet. Architectural highlights of the Yoshio Taniguchi-designed expansion include a 110-foot atrium surrounded by galleries, many with great views of the city. Current exhibits include a survey of German photographer Thomas Demand (March 1-May 30), and "Groundswell: Constructing the Contemporary Landscape," an exhibit of environmentally friendly, design-savvy landscaping projects (Feb. 25-May 16).

The museum charges $20 for adults, $16 for seniors with I.D., $12 for full-time students with I.D., and is free for members, children 16 and under with an adult, and visitors on Friday evenings from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. A ticket entitles visitors to screenings of MoMA films at no additional charge.

Museum hours are Saturday through Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and Friday 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. The museum is closed Tuesdays. Tickets can be purchased on site or online at www.ticketmaster.com/venue/24678. 11 W. 53 St.; 212-708-9400 or 212-708-9480 for film schedule; www.moma.org.

The museum is also home to the Modern, a new restaurant by Grammercy Tavern and Union Square Café maestro Danny Meyer, featuring the French-American cuisine of chef Gabriel Kreuther. The restaurant opened in late November but will be open for limited hours until early 2005. Reservations are recommended. 9 W. 53rd St.; 212-333-1220; www.moma.org/visit_moma/restaurants.html.

Brew York — Williamsburg, Brooklyn's hot bohemian neighborhood, is also home to the less effete Brooklyn Brewery. This pride of city beer-lovers and one of the top breweries in the country is located at the Bedford stop on the L train, mere minutes from downtown. The borough was once the east coast's center of brewing, and the Brooklyn Brewery, founded in 1987, is a paean to those days. Eclectic offerings such as Black Chocolate Stout, Pumpkin Ale and Brooklyner Weissebock beers are executed with an expert hand — an article in the New York Times shows brewmaster Garrett Oliver instructing readers how to best pair beer with food, much in the same manner that a sommelier does with wine. Tours of the plant take place every Saturday at 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m. Following each tour is a tasting of the award-winning libations. Friday happy hour, from 6 to 10 p.m., provides more opportunities for imbibing. Visit the Web site for periodic special events. If you plan to make a night of it, the brewery is walking distance from Brooklyn's legendary Peter Luger Steak house (178 Broadway; 718-387-7400; www.peterluger.com). It's also worth taking a stroll down nearby Bedford Avenue and some of its side streets to get a sense of Williamsburg's vaunted hipster flavor. 79 N. 11th St.; 718-486-7422; www.brooklynbrewery.com.

'Til ya don't stop— If you weren't there to experience it the first time around, HusH Tours offers a guided tour of New York City's hip-hop renaissance, tracing the roots of the form from Manhattan through Harlem and into the Bronx. The tour features celebrity guides such as hip-hop groundbreakers Kurtis Blow, Grand Master Caz and Rahiem of Grand Master Flash & the Furious 5. Highlights include browsing in Harlem for bling, analyses of graffiti and street fashion, and a break dance performance. During the "Show Your Skills" segment of the tour, drop your inhibitions as beats are dropped for a hip-hop karaoke of sorts. Tours run from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturdays through September (subject to change), and depart from HusH Tours' Fifth Avenue offices. Rates are $75 for adults and $50 for students, and reservations are required. 292 Fifth Ave.; 212-714-3527; www.hushtours.com.

Neue Kid on Museum Mile — One of Manhattan's newer museums and perhaps its most elegant is the Neue Galerie ("new gallery" in German), a labor of love by New York City businessmen/philanthropists Ronald Lauder and the late Serge Sabarsky. A 1914 Upper East Side mansion by New York Public Library architects Carrère & Hastings houses a superlative collection of early-20th-century German and Austrian art and design. Expect to see the work of artists Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Paul Klee and Oskar Kokoschka, among others. The museum's Café Sabarsky is one of the city's most beautiful café settings and a destination in its own right. Make time for the superb Viennese pastry and an espresso dubbed one of the city's best by the New York Times.

The museum is open Saturday, Sunday and Monday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and closed Tuesday through Thursday. General admission is $10, students and seniors pay $7. Children under 12 are not permitted in the museum, and children age 12-16 must be accompanied by an adult. Café Sabarsky is open Monday and Wednesday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday through Sunday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., and is closed Tuesday. 1048 Fifth Ave.; 212-628-6200; www.neuegalerie.org.

Nature in the city — Who could guess that a building on Manhattan's Upper West Side could transport visitors to the tropics, the tundra or even outer space? The American Museum of Natural History, which features the Rose Center for Earth and Space and the Hayden Planetarium, is home to such far-reaching exhibits. If insects are more your speed, view the tropical beauties in the Butterfly Conservatory (until May 30). Other museum highlights include the Harrison Ford narrated space show The Search for Life: Are We Alone? at the Rose Center, a rotating schedule of IMAX films and an interactive tour of the world's largest atlas at the Hayden Planetarium. The Museum is open daily 10 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. The Rose Center remains open on Fridays until 8:45 p.m. The Museum is closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Central Park West at W. 79th Street; 212-769-5000; www.amnh.org.

For program information and tickets for the Hayden Planetarium, call 212-769-5200 or visit www.amnh.org/programs/hayden/index.html#virtual; for the Space Show, dial 212-769-5200 or visit www.amnh.org/rose/spaceshowtickets.html; for IMAX, call 212-769-5200 or visit www.amnh.org/museum/imax/?src=h_p#vikings.

Kiss the wall — When he was still a Yankee, Roger Clemens did it before every home game. Every wanna-be pitcher and die-hard Yankees fan wishes they could do it, too. Kiss the plaque honoring Babe Ruth in Yankees Monument Park, that is. You may not be able to actually kiss the wall on one of the Classic, Champions or Champions tours at Yankee Stadium in the Bronx, but you can get pretty close. Each of these tours, which last from an hour to an hour and a half, give fans an insider's glance at the history of the Bronx Bombers and include field access, visits to the dugouts, clubhouse, press box and, of course, monument park. Arrive 30 minutes early; during the season tour times are subject to change, due to rescheduling of postponed games. Tours start at $12 for adult ($14 in the summer months) and $6 for seniors and kids under 14. 161 Street and River Avenue in the Bronx; 212-307-1212 (Ticketmaster); newyork.yankees.mlb.com/NASApp/mlb/nyy/ticketing/stadium_tours.jsp.

Art walks — After a steady northward migration of Soho's art galleries to West Chelsea (upper teens and 20s between 10th and 12th avenues), the neighborhood has become the emerging art destination. Loiter on Thursday nights to catch the openings, which generally take place every week from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.. Some galleries worth visiting are Feigen Contemporary (535 W. 20th St.; 212-929-0500; www.feigencontemporary.com), Mary Boone (541 W. 24th St.; 212-752-2929; maryboonegallery.com), and Gogosian (555 W. 24th St.; 212-741-1111; www.gagosian.com). Expect to see the work of up-and-coming members of the avant-garde as well as the more established names in contemporary art, such as Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and Cindy Sherman. Check www.westchelseaarts.com for additional Chelsea gallery listings.

Get medieval — The Cloisters, an offshoot of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is devoted entirely to the art and architecture of medieval Europe. The collection of this often-missed gem includes masterpieces such as the early-15th-century illuminated manuscript Les Belles Heures de Jean, Duc de Berry and The Hunt of the Unicorn, seven stunning early-16th-century tapestries from northern Europe. In northern Manhattan's Fort Tryon Park on four acres overlooking the Hudson River, the museum was constructed from elements of five Medieval French cloisters (quadrangles with enclosed passageways) by Charles Collens, the architect of Riverside Church (www.theriversidechurchny.org). They are surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens, three of which are planted according to horticultural references from medieval literature. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. from November to February; 9:30 a.m. to 5:15 p.m. March to October; and closed Mondays, New Year's Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas day. Suggested admission is $12 for adults, $7 for seniors and students and free for children under 12 and members of the Met. 192nd Street and Broadway; 212-923-3700; www.metmuseum.org/events/ev_cloisters.asp?HomePageLink=collections_cloisters_l.

Tenement city — Its symbolism as a piece of melting pot America has made Ellis Island a popular tourist destination. But immigrant life off the boat is somewhat less examined. Before the Lower East Side became the hipster haven it is today, the downtown Manhattan neighborhood was home to communities of immigrants struggling to establish themselves. Located in the country's oldest tenement building, the Lower East Side Tenement Museum pays tribute to the experience. Inside the 141-year-old building, apartments have been restored to simulate the lives of actual residents who once occupied the units. Biweekly tours, with themes like "Piecing It Together: Immigrants in the Garment Industry" and "Getting By: Weathering the Great Depressions of 1873 and 1929" give life to these spaces. Tour tickets are $12 for adults, $10 for students and seniors, free for members. Tours take place several times a day from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. The museum is closed Mondays, Thanksgiving day, Christmas day and New Year's Day. For tours, times and special holiday schedules, check www.tenement.org/tours.html. 90 Orchard St.; 212-431-0233; www.tenement.org.